In the 1970s, innovation was eclectic
Under the influence of pop art, everyday objects such as playing cards and ice cream were transformed into fun-filled jewelry, and in 1973 as the company expanded in the United States, the Star Spangled Banner series evoked the colors of the American flag.
“Optical” jewelry is used to repeat geometric patterns, alternating between two or three tones. Gold conveyed the concept of wearable jewellery and became Bulgari’s brand identity. As a result, even very expensive jewelry can be worn in a casual way.
The 1970s brought a variety of elements to Bulgari’s designs: angular shapes, bright colors, egg-shaped oval elements, diamond-encrusted gold sets and chains with circular flat links, all forms of fine jewelry, long necklaces, in particular, became fashion icons of the time, and Bulgari inspired a variety of creations: large egg-shaped or carved emeralds from the 17th-century Indian tradition; lotus patterns in Egyptian art; and, reinterpreted with colorful artwork; brooches with a view of Mount Fuji and long necklaces adorned with miniature Buddha pendants in the style of the Far East.
The post-war boom led to a return to precious white metal, with a stylish diamond-encrusted surface.
Fine jewellery still reeks of Paris, but with more complex patterns and softer lines.
In the 1950s and 1960s, Bulgari introduced a distinctive floral brooch called the TREMBLANT, with a corolla fitted with a spring that quivered the flower’s head.
Egg-cut gemstones are another innovation because they are well suited to lower-value gemstones. “Italian academic” jewellery was born, and the Bulgari style was established.
